The Ätran in late autumn

The Ätran rises far inland and reaches the sea at Falkenberg, where it has shaped the town for centuries. It is best known for salmon, and for the old stone bridge in the town centre, but in October and November it is worth walking for a simpler reason: fog.

Cold nights over relatively warm river water produce mist almost every calm morning in November. It usually lies in the valley until the sun is high enough to burn through, which at this time of year can mean late morning or not at all.

Where to walk

Paths follow both banks for a good distance upstream from the town. They are flat, well used and easy to follow, which matters when visibility drops to a few dozen metres. Downstream, the river widens into the harbour and the beach at its mouth.

High water

Autumn rain upstream arrives in Falkenberg a day or two later. After a wet week the river runs fast and brown and the lower paths can flood. If the water is over the path, turn back; the banks are steep in places and the current is stronger than it looks.

A note on fishing

Salmon fishing on the Ätran is regulated and the rules change. Anyone planning to fish should look up the current season, licences and catch limits locally rather than relying on old guides — or on a journal like this one.

The best time to walk is the first hour after sunrise. The fog is thickest then, the paths are empty, and the town on the far bank appears and disappears with every breath of wind.